It LOOKS great... All aspects that aren't related to it being a SILK PLA are great, but the main reason I'm not printing in PETg is for the shiny additive and like all the others it has the same issues and I end up making another in PETg. Any Silk PLA's I've used so far sum up to : Use for decorative pieces only.It's pretty much the additive that makes it a silk filament's fault so don't drive yourself crazy when things go south on prints. Silk PLA's curl more and have bad layer adhesion, there's no sweet spot for minimal curling on overhangs AND good layer adhesion across temperature, speed, and cooling. (MANY test prints iteratively hunting for a sweet spot between 200C to 250C, 5mm/s to 50mm/s, too much cooling to zero cooling). If a print has good overhangs I can always find a place I can get a layer to separate with a fingernail. Even prints that seem good, crushing the print between my hands (or a day with my 4 year old son) will turn the print into a slinky if it doesn't simply split. Poor Golden PLA Kirby... You did your best against Stone PETg Kirby, but there was no other possible outcome.The 3D prints I produce are large, and I get tired of swapping 1kg spools. These 3kg spools are a great optionThis is the third roll I have bought. My kids like the charmanders and they come out great. I also plan to make pumpkins again soon. Great color.I purchased this to print a Hex3d 3CPO mask on my 3d printer.The filament arrived quickly and packaged safely.I own several other brands of "Silk Gold" PLA and this brand was noticeably less shinier than the others. It is more matte gold than silk gold. I thought the filament roll holder was unique. I have not seen another filament brand have a marbled looking roll before. I would have preferred for the roll to be made of cardboard in order to reduce plastic waste on the environment.I printed this filament on a MDG CR10v3 with a Bondtech LGX extruder with a Slicer Mosquito hotend and a .4mm Ruby Olssen nozzle.I rated this 4 out of 5 stars due to the lack of sheen /shinyness from the gold silk PLA, and for not utilizing a cardboard roll while maintaining the same competitive price.It prints perfectly, has a consistent diameter from beginning to end, and I experienced no issues with bed adhesion or print quality.Overall I would recommend this to others.When I opened the package yesterday I was underwhelmed by the shine of the filament. It seemed fairly matte compared to the pictures on the listing. I had read other reviews saying the same and that they saw the color through the vacuum sealed bag and just returned it, but i decided to take a chance anyway and threw it on the printer because if it works out, you pretty cant beat $15.99 for 1kg of silk PLA. I was incredibly happt with the results, the second print is running right now and is coming out fantastic (dice tower, lots of bridges and overhangs) and the benchy that I did first came out with amazing color and sheen despite the underwhelming look of the filament on the spool.Not only does it look great but it prints great too, i'm printinf it at 50C bed and 190C nozzle temps and haven't had any issues at all. The print quality is on par with my Polyterra Matte PLA ( blue and marble examples in pictures) using the exact same settings which was a really pleasant surprise, i was expecting a bunch of failed or low quality prints while i figured out the settings.Super impressed with this filament so far, i'll update this when i use the rainbow silk if it's any different quality, but i dont foresee that happening.This green in very bright. It is close to RAL 6018, which is close to PANTONE 363, but direct light will lighten the perceived shade in that area. The depth and contrast are among the better filaments I've printed.The surfaces are incredibly smooth. Layer lines are very well blended, especially on smaller objects like the supports for my desk glass. The listed features include “no bubbles” and this filament very much lived up to that claim. Other silk PLAs I’ve printed have sometimes exaggerated printer defects such as ringing at high speed, but this filament hid that very well on a CR-10 whose only upgrade is a dual-gear extruder.So it looks great, even on an average printer, but this filament also makes printing easier. Printing direct to glass worked better than expected. To print on glass you’ll need a much more level bed than if you printed on tape. Silk PLA is especially great for printing a bed level test since the intense reflectivity of the filament will vary enough that you can easily identify issues. I was able to level my glass bed (switching over from tape)with this filament manually by eye. Printing on glass rewards you with a mirror-finish which is complimented by the silkiness of the sides and top. I was able to print the triangular mesh piece (over 250mm wide!) on glass in a workshop below 10c/50f without any curling! 10 brim lines helped, but that is still impressive for a print to hold that well on untreated glass!Regardless of manufacturer, silk PLA tends to string moving from various parts of the print, assuming your slicer software isn’t especially clever about wiping and retracting. This silk PLA isn’t immune to this, but it is comparatively easy to remove. The hand pinch-and-pull works most of the time, but there is always clipping off stray hairs too. Because the strings have substance to them, this makes them easier to remove, even if visually it doesn’t look as appealing. So many times I’ve only realized after taking pictures/videos that there are strings on my print, but because the strings are highly visible, you catch these issues before spending time on a photo-shoot, SERIOUSLY HELPFUL!Overall, I am very satisfied with this Reprapper Silk PLA and look forward to printing more spools of it for both personal and professional client use.This filament was given in exchange for an honest evaluation.It prints well ,but seems soft. Not complaining, just an observation.My primary reason for trying this was overnight delivery.Having used and been impressed with Reprapper blue silk, I decided to try the rainbow. I found that like all the other silks I had used, they stuck far to well to my glass bed. A word of advice from their rep. over Messenger suggested 50C bed temperature which did the trick.You can see the rainbow PLA in the photo. I didn't realise that the colour change was only 20m, so of course I didn't get the effect I was hoping for. I ended up creating what I was looking for by manually swapping colours. On that print, the pale blue is the Reprapper filament, the other colours are assorted manufacturers. I would certainly use Reprapper filament again, but for my smaller models I don't see any benefit to me buying the Rainbow filament again. A large vase etc and I imagine that it would be lovely.Printer is a Creality Ender 3 V2 with Micro Swiss and dual Z conversions.I bought this as I needed a yellow, I never heard of the company before and there wasn't many reviews on them. I bit the bullet and still decided to give it a try, upon receiving it came in a vacuum sealed bag which wasn't so much vacuum sealed. When attempting to print there was a ton of moisture in the filament and the first print came out very bad. Sticking the filament into my Sunlu S1 dryer for 24 hours I started the print again and the results were slightly better but still not great. I reached out to Reprapper about the issue and we discussed that the filament might be bad so they agreed to send my a new role and with that new role the results were great. If it wasn't for Reprapper customer service I wouldn't consider buying another filament from them.I decided to try a different brand filament to my normal choice.i had no problems at all with it.Filament stuck to the bed when printing, the print quality was very good and it released when the bed had cooled.I like the fact the spool is made from recycled material and the bag the filament comes in is resealable which is really handy if you are not going to use it all in one go.|I will definitely be buying againI had high hopes for this filament after reading the positive reviews but I wish I'd paid more attention to the negative reviews. I have used several different brands of filament since getting my 3d printer and this is the only one I've had any problems with. I've printed successfully with pla, pla plus and silk pla from other manufacturers so I don't believe that I'm doing anything wrong. This filament is incredibly brittle (I've tried drying it in my filament dryer which didn't improve it at all) It doesn't stick to the bed, no matter what nozzle and bed temperature combinations I try, the most I've achieved with it was a pile of spaghetti! The only saving grace was it wasn't expensive so I haven't wasted loads of money.船(ヨット)の装備部品を作るために購入。フィラメントは謳い文句にある様にもつれもが無く、径も一定で満足しています。PETGは紫外線に強く対候性があり、適当な弾力もあるのでPLAではできない屋外に置く部品を作っています。ABSだと反りが出て中々うまく造形できませんが、PETGはPLAと同じくらいの反りなので部品設計にある程度留意すれば反りは少しで済みます。(20cm物で1~2mm程度の反りは出ます)以前に白を購入した時にはプリンターの設定に苦しんで諦めかけていたのですが、今回はPLAとBASの中間程度の設定にしてうまく造形できました。夏場と冬では微妙に設定を変えた方がよさそうで、CURAのフィラメントプロファイルもWinter用PETGというのを登録しました。設定はCR-10Sのプリンターでノズル温度 240度、ヒートベッド 60度、速度は第一・二層が10mm/s、標準・最大が60mm/sで壁は25mm/sです。ヘッドの移動速度は120mm/sで造形物を避ける設定です。ファンは二層目まで停止、10層で最大の100%になる設定にしています。室温は16~17度です。造形に掛かる時間を短くするために60mm/sにしていますが、50mm/s以下位までが綺麗にできるので、できる限り遅くした方が良いです(40mm/s位が適当)。ヒートベッドの温度をあまり高くすると反りが出るので60度以上にするならそれなりの反り対策をした方が良いです。75度にしたら設計上配慮しても反りが止まりませんでした。第一層のプリントは非常に重要で、ULTRABASEを使っていても剥離することがあります。今回はノズルの消耗は仕方がないとしてベッドに擦り付ける感じで密着させています。ベッドに薄く傷が付く位ですが、剥がれないですし反りも少しで済みます。プリムをつけた場合、プリム部分はベッドに張り付いたままで造形物には縁に残るくらいです。ベッドの掃除が大変ですが反らせない工夫として参考にして頂ければと思います。長物の造形物ではプリムだけでは反りが出ることもあるので設計時に0.4mmの袴を適当な間隔で履かせて長い直線を短くするような工夫をしています。CURAの設定でプリムの厚みや袴が設定できるとよいのですけどね。それとPLAと違って融解温度が高く溶けたフィラメントは張りが無いのでファンを回さないと天面の造形が落ち込んでしまいます。これを回避するために天面印刷時はファンを100%にしています。サポートで天面を支えるのも効果的ですし、フィルをクロスにしてできる限り落ち込みを防ぐのが良いようです。ノズルの温度は250度から始めて240度で落ち着きました。開放型のCR-10Sなので室温の影響も大きいと思いますが、糸引きは240度が一番少なかったです。それでも第二層では結構凸凹します。三層目以降はノズル温度が高いのでノズルが凸凹を綺麗に平らにしてくれますが、ノズルにフィラメントのごみが溜まるのでノズルを適宜掃除しながら造形しています。プリンターや室内環境によっては別の設定が良い時もあると思いますが、PETGの設定例は少ないので参考になれば幸いです。造形物を使う環境が屋外の場合にはPETGは最適のフィラメント材料と思います。特にヨットのような波を被ったり強い紫外線に晒されるものには向いていると思います。現在作成中の無線ホルダーは雨ざらしにすることもあり、紫外線もかなり浴びることになります。使ってみてどの程度の耐性があるのかは後日レポートしようと思います。メーカーさんに一言。白も必要だったので購入しようとしたら在庫が無いのか作らなくなったのか分かりませんが、リストに載っていませんでした。仕方が無いので他のメーカーの白を購入しました。メーカーさんには製品の継続性が重要な事を認識して頂きたいと思います。白がリストに載ったらまた購入したいと思います。追記 2019/05/09ノズル温度ですが春になって気温が上がったためかノズル温度240度では気泡が入る様になりました。230度に下げたところ綺麗に印刷できるようになりました。またホットベッドの温度はメーカー推奨値の80度が宜しいようです。60度でもなんとか印刷できましたが、第一層は0.2mmでも80度に上げるとベッドに密着しやすくなります。ただし反りが出るのは避けられないのでブリムの 幅を5mm以上にする、0.4mm程度の反り除けのダミー造形物を履かせる、あるいは両方を付けると反りが避けられます。印刷物の紫外線強度ですが、無線のスライド式ホルダーを2か月ほど使いましたが、今のところ何も異常が見られません。この製品のレビューからは外れますがPLAのホルダーを屋外で8か月程度使用していても形の崩れは無いですし元の光沢も失われていません。1～2年使ってみないと紫外線強度の程は判定できそうにないです。