Printed hundreds of Kilos of this. Super consistant!I'm re-printing older projects with totally identical settings from when I was using Makerbot's own filament and barely see a difference in the quality. It's just as strong, manages the same amount of overhang without drooping, and no mess. Adhesion to the heated Kapton bed is totally solid, and arguably a bit better than Mb's own.Also, it's nice to not have a beefy polystyrene spool left over once the roll is done. The cardboard used is very solid and not corrugated like Proto Pasta rolls. So, it retains the durability just as well as the plastic spools.Finally, heat gun and acetone glossing remains spot on and smooths out very predictably. All said, this will be my go-to filament from now on.Just received the "red" ABS which definitely looks more orange, but the proof is in the printing! I decided to test it on one of my commercial venture prototypes which is a definite test of accuracy, smoothness, and layer adhesion. I set up Cura 4.7 to 250 deg. C hot end, and 90 deg. C bed temp. I also used a full brim and added a "heat wall" around the part that rises with it and prevents stray air currents from affecting the print. I reasoned the perimeter wall also helps concentrate heat rising from the bed, and with a small part, the gantry and print head cover a lot of area above the part. I plan to create a simple cover that fixes to the print head and moves around with it to act like a "lid" over the perimeter wall. I like this idea better than a giant enclosure over the entire printer that heats up the steppers, belts, etc.When the print finished there was no evidence of the print warping or breaking loose from the bed. As an added benefit I placed a cover over the perimeter wall to retain bed heat as the entire printer slowly cools, which acts a bit like post-annealing. In the photo the part looks VERY clean without blobs and strings. Retraction setting was 5mm at 50mm/sec with print speed of 50mm. The real test comes in post-processing. So far the part looks excellent, but I'm interested in seeing how vapor smoothing will turn out - looking like a shiny, molded part would be nice!I've already tried PLA, PLA+, and PETG and PLA+ is a solid choice, plus PLA generally prints very cleanly. So far, PETG has not been impressive at all. It is VERY stringy and blobby, though the right slicer settings can mitigate this greatly. But post-processing is where PETG is lacking...at least for the kinds of parts I am making. Larger parts that are not dimension-critical will come out nice, but to make PETG have a brilliant, smooth surface takes a lot of work and there is no practical chemical process.This is my first foray into ABS since I was put off by the high printing temps needed, odor, VOCs, and warping problems, but I am now understanding why ABS was and still is so popular.The Overture ABS did okay in our informal test, but another more expensive brand beat it in terms of final quality. For the price, the Overture was the best we tried, but you're only look at a 25% cost difference to move up.The settings below worked best for all the brands we tried, and worked well for the Overture. To their credit, we only learned about the very important retraction settings from a note inside the Overture box. The Overture also included a print surface. It works well, but another brand that we tested utterly destroyed it, so we can't say for certain how many prints the Overture surface will give you. We are grateful to Overture for the surface, because if we hadn't used it, the other brand would have totaled our machine surface and we'd have had to buy a new part. In any case, painter's tape with cheap hairspray works just as well as the Overture surface.Settings:Snapmaker 2.0 printerPainters tape with cheap hairspray for the surface (best result out of multiple methods tried)Bed Temp: 100 (110 & 105 work also, but if it works at 100, why go hotter?)Print Temp: 245 C (we tried 235 and 240 as well, but 245 gave us the best result)Top Thickness 1.92 mm (this turned out to be important—less than this resulted in tiny gaps in a wide, flat top surface)Infill Density 45% (yes, it's high—we tried 15% and 30% and wound up with gaps with other brands, we left this setting at 45 when we moved on, so we can't say if lower infills will work with this brand or not)IMPORTANT: Enable Retraction, Enable Retract at Layer Change, Retraction Distance 1 mm (Direct Drive Nozzle), Retraction Speed 35 mm). These retraction settings do a good job of reducing stringing. With the Overture brand, they ELIMINATED stringing.Build plate adhesion: None (the tape with cheap hairspray does the job for you; the cheap hairspray develops better surface texture than the good stuff).I print functional parts that have to hold up to abuse. I'd been printing with Esun ABS+ for a couple of years and was pretty happy with it, but when I needed to buy more recently it was sold out everywhere. I decided to give this a try and to my delight it's even better and easier to print than the Esun ABS+.I print this on a direct drive all metal hotend Ender 3 Pro and an Artillery Sidewinder X1 onto PEI coated spring steel. My bed temperature is 105 and my hotend temperature is 155 or 160 depending on the printer. I do use a raft for some parts, depending on their geometry, but most of my prints are directly on the textured PEI. It has a moderate odor when printing that an enclosure will almost totally eliminate in my experience.Prints are strong and have a good surface finish. The printed surface is a bit shiny, that's the only aspect that the Esun ABS+ is superior in. The Esun ABS+ has a matte finish which I find much nicer than the shiny finish with the Overture.